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I was on one side of Yellowstone National Park, and I wanted to get to the other side. I approached the west entrance knowing full well that only two roads exited the east side. They both climbed over substantial mountain passes before they reached my destination, and of course, it was starting to snow. Bypassing the park to the north or south meant hundreds of extra miles of driving and I simply had no time for that. So I had no choice.

The park road conditions number was programmed into my cell phone. I had thought the process through that far, at least. And the recording said that as of 3 o'clock all the roads were still passable. It also said that they recommended snow tires on most of the roads. Which meant they hadn't plowed, and they weren't going to plow, and all it would take was a smidge more snow and the gates would swing closed, at least for the night. I needed to get through fast.

The lady park ranger in the west entrance kiosk was bundled up against the cold. She nodded at my annual pass card and offered me a map. Glancing at her clock, she asked, "Headed for Madison?"

"Nope, Cody."

Madison was one of only two campgrounds still open at the end of October, and it was only twenty miles into the park. Cody was over 100 miles further. She got that skeptical look on her face. ...

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